Types of Barbells: Weightlifting vs Powerlifting vs Hybrid

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Weightlifting bars, powerlifting bars, and dual purpose bars (i.e., hybrid bars) - what is the difference between these types of barbells, and specifically, what’s the deal with the rings (i.e., score marks or knurl marks) on each bar?

That Poor Soul
Some bars have one set of rings, and some bars have two sets of rings. Every time we go to (or host) a powerlifting meet, weightlifting meet, or strengthlifting meet, there is always some poor soul who shows up having trained on one type of bar - for example, a bar that has two sets of rings - and then he steps onto the competition platform and discovers he’s about to use a bar that only has one set of rings.

Now, he’s not sure which set of rings he was using in training, and as a result, he doesn’t know where to take his grip on the competition bar. This situation can also happen in training - either you’re forced to use a different bar than you usually do, or perhaps you’re traveling and are training at an unfamiliar gym.

Figure 1: dual rings (hybrid bar)

Let’s prevent this problem.

The Solution
The solution is straightforward - familiarize yourself with the two types of rings, and you’ll be good to go. We use a hybrid bar as you see in Figure 1 for this purpose.

figure 2: power rings (power bar)

The inner set of rings are 81 cm apart (approximately 32 in) and are commonly referred to as the “powerlifting rings” or simply the “power rings”. On a dedicated powerlifting barbell or “power bar,” this is the only set of rings you see (Figure 2), so if you go to a powerlifting meet, this is most likely what you’ll be using.

The outer set of rings are 91 cm apart (approximately 36 in) and are commonly referred to as the “weightlifting rings” or the “Olympic lifting rings.” If you go to a weightlifting meet, you’ll probably be lifting on a dedicated weightlifting bar (Figure 3), and that bar will only have the outer set of rings.

figure 3: Weightlifting rings (weightlifting bar)

But Why?
The rings are simply there as reference points for your grip so that your lifts can be more consistent and hopefully more successful as well. In the case of a power bar, the rings also serve as the markers for the maximum legal grip width for the bench press (i.e., in competition).

What To Do?
Know what bar you’re using. If you’re using a bar that has only one set of rings, get out a tape measure and measure the distance between the rings or - at the very least - measure it relative to some part of your body (arm length, etc.). This way, you know what bar you’re using, and if you have to use a different bar - whether training somewhere else or competing - your grip (and therefore your lifts) will still be consistent, which means you are more likely to hit your lifts successfully.

As always, we hope this helps you get stronger and live better.

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EASY Fix for a Slanted Lifting Platform (Cheap & Fast!)

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Got a barbell that rolls due to your slanted lifting platform? A solution might be easier than you think.

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DIY Lifting Platform - Easy and Fast!

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Let’s build a lifting platform . . . fast. We’ve got the steps below, and be sure to watch the included videos to see the process in action.

Why You Should Have a Lifting Platform
You want a lifting platform for several reasons - first, it protects your equipment. Specifically, it protects your plates and the floor from chipping, cracking, and/or breaking due to deadlifting, cleaning, snatching, rowing, etc. Second, it’s great for noise and vibration dampening, which is important when you’re lifting while your 2-year-old is sleeping, and it’s also important so that you don’t annoy your neighbors. Finally, a platform is useful for safety - it clearly delineates your lifting space. When you’re on the platform, it says, “Hey, this is someone’s lifting space - stay off the platform.”

How to Build It
“Build” is an aggressive term. Putting together a platform is pretty simple - so much so that “assemble” is probably more appropriate. Here we go:

Step 1: Base Layer
Take two ¾” x 4’ x 8’ sheets of OSB and set them down on the floor side-by-side. These sheets run lengthwise, i.e., “front-to-back” in terms of your platform’s orientation (Figure 1).

Note: These sheets are commonly referred to as ¾” thick, but the actual thickness is 23/32” and will be listed that way at the lumber store.

IMPORTANT: Most sheets have a slight bow or “crown” to them. When setting them down, be sure that the crown is up. In other words, you want the sheet to make a hill, not a valley. If you do this, the weight of the entire platform itself helps remove any bowing from the final product.

Step 2: Middle Layer
Take two more ¾” x 4’ x 8’ sheets of OSB and set them on top of the base layer so that they run perpendicular to the base layer’s sheets, i.e., “side-to-side” in terms of your platform’s orientation (Figure 2). Attach the middle layer to the base layer using 1 ¼” screws - we use 3 screws along the short edge of each sheet and 4 screws along the long edge of each sheet.

Step 3: Top Layer - MDF
Take a ¾” thick sheet of MDF and cut it so that it’s 96” x 42” (i.e., 8’ x 3.5’). MDF comes in 97” x 49” sheets, and you can either have your lumber supplier do it for you (Lowe’s typically does this for free), or you can do it yourself. We like MDF as it’s relatively heavy, sits nice and flat, and because of this, it helps remove any bowing from your platform. With that said, you can also use something nicer like oak for the top layer.

Using 1 ⅝” screws, attach the MDF to the middle layer so that it’s perpendicular to that layer (i.e., the MDF will run “front-to-back”) and centered. The MDF should sit so that it’s 27” in from either side of the platform. We use 3 screws down each long edge for a total of 6 screws. Be sure that the screws are slightly countersunk so that you don’t damage your plates if you accidentally set the bar down a bit off-center.

Step 4: Top Layer - Horse Stall Mats
Get three ¾” x 4’ x 6’ rubber horse stall mats. Ideally, you want mats without any type of pattern or texture on them, but if they are dimpled on the bottom, it’s not the end of the world. Using a jig saw (watch the video), cut two 72” x 27” pieces (i.e., 6’ x 2’3”) and two 24” x 27” pieces (i.e., 2’ x 2’3”). Thus, you now have two long pieces and two short pieces of horse stall mat.

Set one long piece and one short piece on the left side of the MDF and repeat the process on the right side of the MDF (Figure 3). Make sure the rubber mats fit tight and snug up against the MDF as well as each other, then attach the mats to the middle layer using 1 ⅝” screws (Figure 4), and again, be sure to countersink them slightly. We put screws around the outside, front, and back edges of the mats. However, don’t put screws on the edge near the MDF - this will help ensure that you don’t accidentally set your plates down on a screw that’s a bit proud.

There you have it - your very own lifting platform. It’s easy, it’s quick, and it’s incredibly durable.

As always, we hope this helps you get stronger and live better.

(Some links may be affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, Testify earns from qualifying purchases.)

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How to Start Lifting | Personal Gear

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What personal gear do you need to start lifting weights? In the second video of the "How to Start Lifting" series, Phil covers the personal equipment that you'll need as well as a few things to avoid (spoiler: don't get Chuck Taylors!).

(This video is a Blast from the Past video originally published on 10/11/21.)

At Testify, we offer small group training, private coaching (in-person or remotely via Zoom), online coaching, and form checks. Click the button below to get quality coaching from a Starting Strength Coach and start getting stronger TODAY.

The Best Way to Put On a Lifting Belt! (and a secret weapon)

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A lifting belt is an extremely useful tool for your strength training, and within a month or two of starting to train, you should be using one regularly. Putting on a lifting belt, however, can be a bit tricky, so let’s sort this out.

How to Do It
There is one way - that’s right, just one - to put on a belt correctly, and it involves the upright of your squat rack. The photos here show a double-prong belt in use, but the method works just as well for single prong belts (in fact, it’s slightly easier). The steps are below, and to learn it even quicker and better, watch the included video.

  1. Put the nose of your belt through the buckle and wrap the nose of the belt around the upright.

  2. Lean away from the upright. Be sure to lean away so that your hips move away from the rack as well (Figure 1); don’t lean away like you’re trying to avoid a punch (Figure 2).

  3. Twist your body away from the rack. For example, if the nose of the belt came around the right side of your body, twist to your left (Figure 3). This will tighten up the belt.

  4. Put the prong(s) through the appropriate hole(s).

Taking off the belt is much the same as putting it on - wrap the nose around the rack, lean away, twist to loosen, and then remove the prong(s).

Squat Stands vs Squat Racks
If you have a squat stand (free-standing, two uprights) instead of a squat rack (anchored to the floor, four uprights), it may tip toward you when you lean away. This is bad. However, it’s an easy problem to solve. Simply place your foot down on the far side of the floor support, and you’ll be able to keep the squat stand anchored in place.

Secret Weapon
I told you there’s only one way to put on a belt, and this is true . . . mostly. If you’re at a meet, you might not have a squat rack handy when you’re about to step on the competition platform. Oh, you’ll have plenty of racks in the warm-up room, but there will quite possibly be none near the competition platform. Here’s what you do (and again, watch the video above to see this in action):

  1. Put the nose of your belt through the buckle.

  2. Place the sharp end of the screwdriver through one of the holes of the belt (Figure 4).

  3. Grab that end of the screwdriver (don’t impale yourself), and pull back, treating the screwdriver as a lever (Figure 5). This will get the belt as tight as you like.

How Tight Should Your Belt Be?
When you’re new to wearing a lifting belt, it should be uncomfortably tight. If it’s comfortable to wear and easy to wiggle around, it’s merely a fashion accessory. Don’t let your belt be a fashion accessory. With practice, what was uncomfortably tight at the beginning will simply feel correct.

Need to Buy a Belt? Watch This First.
If you’re getting ready to buy a lifting belt, I’d recommend watching the included video here to get a good sense of what to look for when purchasing one. You’ll also find some links below to a few belts we recommend to our members.

Belts
My belt is from Best Belts, and I’d love to recommend them to you, but as of May 2023, they're backlogged and aren't taking orders, so with that in mind, here are the belt options we typically recommend:

(Some links may be affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, Testify earns from qualifying purchases.)

As always, we hope this helps you get stronger and live better.

If you found this helpful, you’ll love our weekly email. It’s got useful videos, articles, and training tips just like the one in this article. Sign up below, and of course, if you don’t love it, you can unsubscribe at any time.

At Testify, we offer small group training, private coaching (in-person or remotely via Zoom), online coaching, and form checks. Would you like to get quality coaching from a Starting Strength Coach?

How to Start Lifting | General Equipment

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What equipment do you need to start lifting weights and getting stronger? In this first video of the "How to Start Lifting" series, Phil covers the basic equipment that you'll need, and he also covers what equipment to avoid as well.

(This video is a Blast from the Past video originally published on 10/04/21.)

At Testify, we offer small group training, private coaching (in-person or remotely via Zoom), online coaching, and form checks. Click the button below to get quality coaching from a Starting Strength Coach and start getting stronger TODAY.