DIY Lifting Platform - Easy and Fast!

(A Blast from the Past article originally posted on 06/02/23)

Let’s build a lifting platform . . . fast. We’ve got the steps below, and be sure to watch the included videos to see the process in action.

Why You Should Have a Lifting Platform
You want a lifting platform for several reasons - first, it protects your equipment. Specifically, it protects your plates and the floor from chipping, cracking, and/or breaking due to deadlifting, cleaning, snatching, rowing, etc. Second, it’s great for noise and vibration dampening, which is important when you’re lifting while your 2-year-old is sleeping, and it’s also important so that you don’t annoy your neighbors. Finally, a platform is useful for safety - it clearly delineates your lifting space. When you’re on the platform, it says, “Hey, this is someone’s lifting space - stay off the platform.”

How to Build It
“Build” is an aggressive term. Putting together a platform is pretty simple - so much so that “assemble” is probably more appropriate. Here we go:

Step 1: Base Layer
Take two ¾” x 4’ x 8’ sheets of OSB and set them down on the floor side-by-side. These sheets run lengthwise, i.e., “front-to-back” in terms of your platform’s orientation (Figure 1).

Note: These sheets are commonly referred to as ¾” thick, but the actual thickness is 23/32” and will be listed that way at the lumber store.

IMPORTANT: Most sheets have a slight bow or “crown” to them. When setting them down, be sure that the crown is up. In other words, you want the sheet to make a hill, not a valley. If you do this, the weight of the entire platform itself helps remove any bowing from the final product.

Step 2: Middle Layer
Take two more ¾” x 4’ x 8’ sheets of OSB and set them on top of the base layer so that they run perpendicular to the base layer’s sheets, i.e., “side-to-side” in terms of your platform’s orientation (Figure 2). Attach the middle layer to the base layer using 1 ¼” screws - we use 3 screws along the short edge of each sheet and 4 screws along the long edge of each sheet.

Step 3: Top Layer - MDF
Take a ¾” thick sheet of MDF and cut it so that it’s 96” x 42” (i.e., 8’ x 3.5’). MDF comes in 97” x 49” sheets, and you can either have your lumber supplier do it for you (Lowe’s typically does this for free), or you can do it yourself. We like MDF as it’s relatively heavy, sits nice and flat, and because of this, it helps remove any bowing from your platform. With that said, you can also use something nicer like oak for the top layer.

Using 1 ⅝” screws, attach the MDF to the middle layer so that it’s perpendicular to that layer (i.e., the MDF will run “front-to-back”) and centered. The MDF should sit so that it’s 27” in from either side of the platform. We use 3 screws down each long edge for a total of 6 screws. Be sure that the screws are slightly countersunk so that you don’t damage your plates if you accidentally set the bar down a bit off-center.

Step 4: Top Layer - Horse Stall Mats
Get three ¾” x 4’ x 6’ rubber horse stall mats. Ideally, you want mats without any type of pattern or texture on them, but if they are dimpled on the bottom, it’s not the end of the world. Using a jig saw (watch the video), cut two 72” x 27” pieces (i.e., 6’ x 2’3”) and two 24” x 27” pieces (i.e., 2’ x 2’3”). Thus, you now have two long pieces and two short pieces of horse stall mat.

Set one long piece and one short piece on the left side of the MDF and repeat the process on the right side of the MDF (Figure 3). Make sure the rubber mats fit tight and snug up against the MDF as well as each other, then attach the mats to the middle layer using 1 ⅝” screws (Figure 4), and again, be sure to countersink them slightly. We put screws around the outside, front, and back edges of the mats. However, don’t put screws on the edge near the MDF - this will help ensure that you don’t accidentally set your plates down on a screw that’s a bit proud.

There you have it - your very own lifting platform. It’s easy, it’s quick, and it’s incredibly durable.

As always, we hope this helps you get stronger and live better.

-Phil

PS: Whenever you want even more Testify in your life, here are some free resources:

• Book a free intro and strategy session with us HERE.

• Pick up a free copy of Testify’s Squat Guide: 12 Tips to Improve Your Squat Now HERE.

• Get our free weekly email - containing useful videos, articles, and training tips - HERE.

• Follow Testify on Instagram HERE.

• Subscribe to Testify’s YouTube channel HERE.

(Some links may be affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, Testify earns from qualifying purchases.)

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At Testify, we offer small group training, private coaching (in-person or remotely via Zoom), online coaching, and form checks. Interested in getting stronger, looking better, and having more energy?

How to Easily Build a Lifting Platform (and the EASIEST way to cut stall mats)

(A Blast from the Past article originally posted on 11/04/22)

A lifting platform is a very important part of your gym - it protects your equipment as well as your floor, it dampens the noise and vibrations of deadlifts, cleans, snatches, etc., and it clearly delineates the lifting space. This last factor - the abundantly clear “stay out of my lifting space” effect of the platform - is very useful when you have a training partner or little kids with you in the gym.

Fortunately, building a lifting platform is quite easy. In fact, “building” is a rather generous term for the process - we’re pretty much just assembling a platform. We’ll lay out the steps below, but I’d strongly recommend watching one of the videos linked throughout this article for a better understanding of the process.

First, lay two 4’ x 8’ sheets of OSB next to one another. I’d recommend what is commonly referred to as 3/4"-thick OSB, but the actual dimension will be listed as 23/32”.

Laying down the base layer of OSB sheets

These two sheets will run lengthwise, i.e., they’re run front-to-back. The sheets will probably have a slight bow to them (i.e., a curvature), and you’ll want to make sure that the crown of the board is up (so the board should make a mountain, not a valley).

Next, lay two more sheets of the same OSB on top of the base layer. These sheets will be perpendicular to the base layer sheets, so they’ll run side-to-side. Again, the crown should be up. Then you’ll use 1-1/4” screws to attach the second layer to the base layer. We use three screws on the short end of each board and four screws along the long end.

Laying down the 2nd layer of OSB sheets

Then, for the top layer, you’ll use a sheet of 3/4”-thick MDF to run down the middle. You could use something nicer like oak, but we like MDF as it’s nice and heavy and causes everything to lie nice and flat. You’ll need to do some cutting on the MDF as they are sized at 49” x 97”. You’ll cut the length to 96” (8 feet), and we recommend cutting the width to 42” (3.5 feet) as this gives you ample room between the plates and the MDF when you set down your deadlifts, cleans, etc (you can go with 4 feet wide, but 3.5 feet makes it much less likely that you’ll chip the MDF over time). You can do this yourself, or your lumber store may be willing to rip it for you.

Finally, you’ll use 3/4”-thick horse stall mats for the rest of the top layer. Stall mats are typically 4’ x 6’, so you’ll have some cutting to do here. The bigger piece on each side will be 72” x 27” (i.e., 6’ x 2’3”), and the smaller piece on each side will be 24” x 27” (i.e., 2’ x 2’3”). 

To attach the top layer to the second layer, use 1-5/8” screws. We put six screws into the MDF - three in front and three in back. For the stall mats, we simply put screws around the outside, front, and back of the platform - we don’t put any screws down the rubber edge near the MDF so that we can’t accidentally set our metal plates or bumper plates down on a screw that might be a bit proud.

Last note - when cutting stall mats, use a jig saw. It is - by far - the best way to do it. Check out the video above to see this process.

We hope this helps you quickly and easily build a lifting platform, and as always, we hope this helps you get stronger and live better.

Finished platform - complete with Addy, Milo, & Parker

(Some links may be affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, Testify earns from qualifying purchases.)

If you found this helpful, you’ll love our weekly email. It’s got useful videos, articles, and training tips just like the one in this article. Sign up below, and of course, if you don’t love it, you can unsubscribe at any time.

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At Testify, we offer small group training, private coaching (in-person or remotely via Zoom), online coaching, and form checks. Interested in getting stronger, looking better, and having more energy?

Slippery Lifting Platform?! Use THIS.

The last thing you want when you're training is a slippery lifting surface - at the very least, it's inefficient and a good way to miss a lift, and on the other end of the spectrum, it's a good way to accidentally end up doing the splits and perhaps get injured in the process.

you don’t want a slippery platform when lifting.

The Problem: Lack of Friction
A lifting surface with reasonable friction is rather important, and it's especially important in the Olympic lifts. Picture the split jerk wherein your feet leave the ground and then come back down in different positions - friction is vital as you’ve got some decent front-to-back force between your feet, and you don't want to end up doing the splits. However, friction is important in the slow lifts or “strength lifts” as well - you don't want any chance of your feet slipping under the load of a heavy squat.

So, if you train on a surface that tends to be a bit slick, or if you train in a humid environment that can occasionally create such a situation, what do you do?

The Answer
Rosin powder. It’s cheap, it works well, and you can get it quickly from Amazon (click here). Rosin powder is simply rock rosin mixed with magnesium carbonate - in other words, crystallized tree resin mixed with chalk so that it comes in a powder form that’s easy to apply. You can also get rosin in rock or crystal form, but this powder is tough to beat for convenience and portability.

How to Use It
Perform the following steps (watch the included video above for a demonstration and explanation)

Step 1
Sprinkle some powder on your platform. You don’t need much, and it doesn’t matter where you sprinkle it as the goal is to get it on the soles of your shoes (not the platform).

Step 2
Grind and/or stab your shoes into the powder repeatedly until all of the powder is on the soles of your shoes.

Step 3
Check that you’ve gotten all of it on your shoes. You know you’re done when you can’t see any more powder on the platform. You also know you’ve done it correctly (and didn’t use too much) when you can walk around your platform and not leave white footprints wherever you go.

Wrapping Up
A 4 oz shaker bottle of rosin powder costs roughly $10-15, and it should last years. A bottle at Testify typically lasts a few years, and bear in mind that’s with multiple people using it, so if you’re just purchasing it for personal use, it might last longer than you do.

Interestingly, rosin is actually required at weightlifting meets, but we have never seen it present at a local meet (well . . . except ours). With this in mind, if you intend to compete, I recommend bringing your own in case the platform (warm-up or competition) is a bit slick.

As always, we hope this helps you get stronger and live better.

(Some links may be affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, Testify earns from qualifying purchases.)

If you found this helpful, you’ll love our weekly email. It’s got useful videos, articles, and training tips just like the one in this article. Sign up below, and of course, if you don’t love it, you can unsubscribe at any time.

---

At Testify, we offer small group training, private coaching (in-person or remotely via Zoom), online coaching, and form checks. Would you like to get quality coaching from a Starting Strength Coach?

Weightlifting vs Powerlifting vs Hybrid Barbells in 2 minutes!

What's with the different markings on barbells? Phil quickly and simply explains what they mean, what purpose they serve, and how to know which one to use.

(This is a Blast from the Past video originally published on 02/12/22.)

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At Testify, we offer small group training, private coaching (in-person or remotely via Zoom), online coaching, and form checks. Click the button below to get quality coaching from a Starting Strength Coach and start getting stronger TODAY.

Build a Lifting Platform in 3 Minutes!

In less than 3 minutes, Phil, Becky, and Barb show you how to build a lifting platform. Whether you're using it for general strength training, weightlifting, or powerlifting, this platform is durable, protects your equipment and floor, and is easy to put together.

(This is a Blast from the Past video originally published on 02/05/22.)

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At Testify, we offer small group training, private coaching (in-person or remotely via Zoom), online coaching, and form checks. Click the button below to get quality coaching from a Starting Strength Coach and start getting stronger TODAY.

DIY Lifting Platform - Easy and Fast!

Let’s build a lifting platform . . . fast. We’ve got the steps below, and be sure to watch the included videos to see the process in action.

Why You Should Have a Lifting Platform
You want a lifting platform for several reasons - first, it protects your equipment. Specifically, it protects your plates and the floor from chipping, cracking, and/or breaking due to deadlifting, cleaning, snatching, rowing, etc. Second, it’s great for noise and vibration dampening, which is important when you’re lifting while your 2-year-old is sleeping, and it’s also important so that you don’t annoy your neighbors. Finally, a platform is useful for safety - it clearly delineates your lifting space. When you’re on the platform, it says, “Hey, this is someone’s lifting space - stay off the platform.”

How to Build It
“Build” is an aggressive term. Putting together a platform is pretty simple - so much so that “assemble” is probably more appropriate. Here we go:

Step 1: Base Layer
Take two ¾” x 4’ x 8’ sheets of OSB and set them down on the floor side-by-side. These sheets run lengthwise, i.e., “front-to-back” in terms of your platform’s orientation (Figure 1).

Note: These sheets are commonly referred to as ¾” thick, but the actual thickness is 23/32” and will be listed that way at the lumber store.

IMPORTANT: Most sheets have a slight bow or “crown” to them. When setting them down, be sure that the crown is up. In other words, you want the sheet to make a hill, not a valley. If you do this, the weight of the entire platform itself helps remove any bowing from the final product.

Step 2: Middle Layer
Take two more ¾” x 4’ x 8’ sheets of OSB and set them on top of the base layer so that they run perpendicular to the base layer’s sheets, i.e., “side-to-side” in terms of your platform’s orientation (Figure 2). Attach the middle layer to the base layer using 1 ¼” screws - we use 3 screws along the short edge of each sheet and 4 screws along the long edge of each sheet.

Step 3: Top Layer - MDF
Take a ¾” thick sheet of MDF and cut it so that it’s 96” x 42” (i.e., 8’ x 3.5’). MDF comes in 97” x 49” sheets, and you can either have your lumber supplier do it for you (Lowe’s typically does this for free), or you can do it yourself. We like MDF as it’s relatively heavy, sits nice and flat, and because of this, it helps remove any bowing from your platform. With that said, you can also use something nicer like oak for the top layer.

Using 1 ⅝” screws, attach the MDF to the middle layer so that it’s perpendicular to that layer (i.e., the MDF will run “front-to-back”) and centered. The MDF should sit so that it’s 27” in from either side of the platform. We use 3 screws down each long edge for a total of 6 screws. Be sure that the screws are slightly countersunk so that you don’t damage your plates if you accidentally set the bar down a bit off-center.

Step 4: Top Layer - Horse Stall Mats
Get three ¾” x 4’ x 6’ rubber horse stall mats. Ideally, you want mats without any type of pattern or texture on them, but if they are dimpled on the bottom, it’s not the end of the world. Using a jig saw (watch the video), cut two 72” x 27” pieces (i.e., 6’ x 2’3”) and two 24” x 27” pieces (i.e., 2’ x 2’3”). Thus, you now have two long pieces and two short pieces of horse stall mat.

Set one long piece and one short piece on the left side of the MDF and repeat the process on the right side of the MDF (Figure 3). Make sure the rubber mats fit tight and snug up against the MDF as well as each other, then attach the mats to the middle layer using 1 ⅝” screws (Figure 4), and again, be sure to countersink them slightly. We put screws around the outside, front, and back edges of the mats. However, don’t put screws on the edge near the MDF - this will help ensure that you don’t accidentally set your plates down on a screw that’s a bit proud.

There you have it - your very own lifting platform. It’s easy, it’s quick, and it’s incredibly durable.

As always, we hope this helps you get stronger and live better.

-Phil

PS: Whenever you want even more Testify in your life, here are some free resources:

• Book a free intro and strategy session with us HERE.

• Pick up a free copy of Testify’s Squat Guide: 12 Tips to Improve Your Squat Now HERE.

• Get our free weekly email - containing useful videos, articles, and training tips - HERE.

• Follow Testify on Instagram HERE.

• Subscribe to Testify’s YouTube channel HERE.

(Some links may be affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, Testify earns from qualifying purchases.)

---

At Testify, we offer small group training, private coaching (in-person or remotely via Zoom), online coaching, and form checks. Interested in getting stronger, looking better, and having more energy?